Michigan Mountain Biking Association
bikerector wrote:Hmm... hi speed and lo speed compression are two things I've heard of but know exactly nothing of what the difference is. Per Fox's website, CTD controls the low-speed damping. It does not look like I have control of high speed damping adjustment; unless that's covered by the CTD selector or air pressure is the high-speed adjustment for air shocks?
Here's a description I found on a downhill forum (I think) searching the terms in google.
http://www.ridemonkey.com/forums/f19/ho ... on-182140/
Thinking more about where O-rings have been after rides, I think it's usually the fork that's using tons of the travel. The rear, which has a more adjust-ability, seems pretty good. Maybe I should look into a CTD fork with adjustable trail setting. There is a massive difference between the 3 available compression settings. I do use a lot more arms than legs for bunny hopping, climbing , pulling the front end up over things, maybe there's some technique improvements to be made as well, like landing with more weigh on the rear? Something to look into anyway as a possible upgrade.
I think the boost valve in the rear shock could be a big contributor to why the rear handles the bigger hits better, based on the description from fox's website. I had an issue at Fort Custer when I discovered I had made too many adjustments at once and not at race speeds so I wasn't testing the system appropriately. 20 extra psi in the rear shock, tubeless tires run at low pressure (same pressures as training tires, but a 2.0 instead of 2.2 width), and increased the compression damping. Result, 3 crashes, slippery, unstable rear end (too much shock, too little tire air pressure). All part of my tuning process I guess, ride it to the limits and adjust if necessary. Went back to the old setting with some minor adjustments and it was much better than race day, I just learned how to ride it better (get your lazy A off the saddle and let the bike do it's thing, like at the bottom of a short slope that quickly goes back up or bottoms out into a turn squishing the suspension. Side by side riding with the full-rigid and full-sus help correct that idiocy.
http://www.ridefox.com/technology.php?m ... =lnav_tech
Seems like I've been focusing too much on tuning the rear and maybe not getting the front quite right; plus some improvements in technique/balance that could help. Some reason, I've been focusing on the shock much more than the fork, maybe because it has been the rear sliding around and it has more knobs to fiddle with.
Tuning a rigid suspension is so much easier.
bikerector wrote:And yet another question, is it "ideal" to utilize all of the travel?
Some reading on fox's help website (linked on a different forum) suggested you should be using most of the travel as long as you're not bottoming out (excessively bottoming out may have been the term used). I think I am bottoming out slightly but nothing comparable to hitting like on a rigid fork which I've used over the same obstacles with much less comfort. So much interpretation based on "feelings."
Don't make too many adjustments at once. One thing I think I would say is try to find a slightly better balance (if you use 75% of travel on rear, aim to match your fork to 75% if possible) the bike should feel nicely balanced that way.
My XC bike I rarely use more than 75ish% of my travel, I don't want the bike to feel soft or mushy when I am climbing or pedaling hard or need to maintain some momentum somewhere. Usually I want that margin of error built into my suspension for the time I make a mistake, I still have that 15% to prevent a crash or an OTB or something.
bikerector wrote:[I feel like downhillers have a lot more to gain from suspension tuning which is probably why they tinker more. When I was much more into crotch rockets and riding the race track the same thing was applicable. Dragging pedals in corners is no fun and scares the crap out of you the first few times of the day that you do it. Some of the guys at track days that work on their own stuff are severe suspension guru's, and a lot of them rode mountain bikes ironically. It's how I got into cycling. .
bikerector wrote:[I think I'm close to this for most of the regular riding. It's when I bunny-hop off the drop instead of just taking it like normal I feel like I'm blowing through the travel, it's just so much fun to act like a kid in the woods and not a racer. Same reason I like to run over random stuff (local trail just got thinned out so there's small down trees all over the place) that's not the ideal line sometimes, just because I can (can't make that a habit for racing though). I'll have to look at playing with adding some air pressure and lowering compression and vice versa to see what that does. Raising both has had less than desirable results for me, though I could just be a sketchy rider still as I continue to learn to ride more technical stuff at higher speeds.
If the F/S does anything, it hides the fact that I'm going considerably faster on it than I am on my rigid. Complete different transmission of the terrain.
Again, appreciate the knowledge.
300hp wrote:Oh, kickstart...what don't we agree on?
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